Epic Summer

We woke early from a beautiful nights sleep in a big matrimonial bed, as they call them here. It was too early for my liking, 7:30am in the mañana. Why? Who knows, I guess the intention was to go surfing at the crack of dawn… yeah right. The Kahuai boys had stayed up late drinking beverages watching a massive tropical thunderstorm out over the sea (the first rain we have seen so far). I wish that I had stayed up and got some photos but I was wrecked from driving through many small Mexican villages that day, and also over at least a 1000 topes (speed bumps) in search of the perfect wave.

… drive was in was worth the detour and the photos …

We ate breakfast in the hotel resturante, I had a nice “ensalada de fruta” they are always loaded with all the tropical goodness of Mexico with fruit like banana, papaya, piña (pineapple), cantaloupe and sandia (watermelon). We had a surf spot tip from a sister from the USA that lives in Puerto Angel, she said often surfers go to a waves break called “Aragon”. So we set out in search of the location, it was easy to find with a little local knowledge however if you lacked that you would struggle to even get to the coast because it is very well hidden and not visible from most main roads. The surf was ok but not great… not inspiring enough to paddle out. But the drive was in was worth the detour and the photos of some rugged isolated Mexican coast line.

… chest pressed to the sand lung wrenching hold downs …

We returned back to the same spot that we surfed yesterday afternoon. The surf was cranking out some solid 4-5 foot sets both lefts and rights. It was a little difficult to get out but worth the effort with some classic waves to be had if your wave selection was dial into the right combination. Forrest obviously had the right set of keys and scored himself a couple on nice barrels, on the other hand I scored some massive hits on the head with some chest pressed to the sand lung wrenching hold downs. In actual fact I did score some nice waves… some of my best yet with some video that you will probably never see to prove it.

Lastnight and for lunch today we went to a mexican restuarante called “Alex”, it makes a dish call “Tlyuda”, basically it is an el grande tortilla about the size of a family pizza with toppings of your choice like cheese, ham, sausage (Chorizo) or chicken. They are like what pizza is to Italy, except the Mexican equivalent is much more healthier and tastier… especially with loads of chilli salsa on top.

The Kahuai boys needed to get back to Oaxaca that evening so Ashley and I caught a bus for $25 pesos back to Puerto Escondido. One more day and we are heading back to Oaxaca city ourselves.

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